Penfolds Bin 95 Grange - POA

Winemaking and Drinking

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Penfolds Grange Hermitage: A Legend in a Bottle

Few wines command the reverence and intrigue of Penfolds Grange Hermitage. Known globally as Australia’s most celebrated and collectible wine, Grange has achieved an almost mythic status among enthusiasts and collectors alike. Its story is not just one of great craftsmanship, but also of visionary persistence and a redefinition of Australian winemaking.

The Origins and History

The genesis of Penfolds Grange Hermitage dates back to the early 1950s, when chief winemaker Max Schubert embarked on a secret project that would ultimately alter the course of Australian wine history. In 1950, during a research trip to Europe, Schubert was inspired by the age-worthy wines of Bordeaux. He returned determined to create an Australian red wine that could rival the complexity and longevity of those great French crus.

In 1951, Schubert crafted the first experimental vintage of what he initially called "Grange Hermitage" — the name a nod to the Penfolds cottage, "The Grange," and "Hermitage," an Australian term then commonly used for Shiraz. Unlike Bordeaux blends, Grange was predominantly Shiraz (Syrah), often complemented with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon to add structure.

However, the wine’s early releases were met with confusion and disapproval by Penfolds’ management and the Australian public, accustomed to lighter, fresher styles. In 1957, Schubert was ordered to cease production. Defiantly, he continued making Grange in secret, stashing barrels in the depths of the Penfolds cellars. By the early 1960s, as the earlier vintages began to mature and reveal their profound character, perceptions changed. Recognizing its potential, Penfolds reinstated Grange’s production officially — and the legend was born.

Tasting Notes

Penfolds Grange is renowned for its power, intensity, and capacity to evolve over decades. In its youth, a typical Grange presents a dense, almost impenetrable bouquet of ripe blackberry, dark plum, and mulberry fruits, intertwined with rich notes of mocha, vanilla, and exotic spices, all cloaked by Penfolds’ signature American oak influence.

On the palate, Grange is monumental — full-bodied, muscular, and opulent, with lush fruit concentration balanced by robust tannins and vibrant acidity. As it ages, the wine gains remarkable complexity: youthful exuberance gives way to secondary characters of leather, tobacco, earthy underbrush, and game, while the oak becomes seamlessly integrated. Older Grange vintages often exhibit a haunting aromatic profile — a subtle dance of dried fruits, cedar, roasted meats, and antique leather.

Notably, each Grange vintage reflects the climatic conditions of its year, yet a common thread of house style ensures its unmistakable identity.

Awards and Accolades

Throughout its illustrious history, Penfolds Grange has garnered a treasure trove of awards and accolades, securing its position as a benchmark of fine wine. A major turning point came in 1990 when the 1990 vintage was declared "Wine of the Year" by Wine Spectator, propelling Grange into international stardom.

In 2001, Grange received the rare honor of being listed as a Heritage Icon of South Australia, further cementing its cultural significance. Over the years, multiple vintages have achieved perfect scores (100 points) from leading critics including Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. Most recently, vintages such as the 2008 and 2010 have achieved critical acclaim for their extraordinary balance and longevity.

The ultimate accolade, perhaps, came in 2012 when a complete set of Penfolds Grange from 1951 onwards sold for over $1 million AUD at auction, underscoring its desirability among collectors.

Penfolds Grange Hermitage is more than just a wine; it is a symbol of Australian innovation and excellence. From its daring origins under Max Schubert’s stewardship to its current status as a global icon, Grange embodies the spirit of persistence, craftsmanship, and a relentless pursuit of greatness. Whether savored young for its vibrancy or cellared for decades to reveal its profound complexities, each bottle of Grange tells a story — one of vision, resilience, and a touch of rebellion.